Tuesday 29 November 2011

Versace H&M Collaboration Went as Planned, but Made Many Feel Disgusting

Much buzzed about Versace H&M collaboration went tip top according to Versace and H&M management. Countless ad releases, press and video coverages, who has't heart about it? But here is a sad news - most just heard about it, never got to see it...

In Toronto for example, collection was only available in 2 stores - Eaton Center and Yorkdale Mall. That's it. Toronto is 4th largest city in North America, with population smaller only than in NY, Chicago and LA. I see people blogging that they had to wake up at 4 am and stand in a few hour long line while in the store to get a little skirt or a jacket for $200. At Eaton Center collection was sold out by 12:30 pm.

I am not sure why people are so proud of getting some cheap Versaces? Something is seriously wrong with H&M marketing as they piss more people off than make them happy. The whole idea of collaborating with luxury brand is to create a "high-end" experience in a low-end store H&M. Clearly H&M is known for a good value and low prices, but average quality which is still worth it for the money they charge. So, bringing in big name designers supposedly is for increasing the company reputation as a higher-end brand. But making people turn into bums to snap a piece of clothing is not "high-end".

Some designers get it. For example Karl Lagerfeld a few years back was among the first collaborators of H&M. He was disgusted by the fact that people were treated this way and made H&M produce enough quantity to satisfy the demand. At Chanel one would get a royal treatment when shopping with offered drinks and multiple staff helping you shop. At H&M you are faced with a sleep over on the street before doors open and a few hour long line up when inside. I would imagine the atmosphere is far from friendly over there.

Another concern is creation of black market. It probably peaked at Roberto Cavalli H&M launch just 4 years ago. Once collection sold out it reappeared at eBay for a premium. For some people the collaboration was not a way to engage fashion, it was to make money. I can't blame them - when opportunity is created, why not use it. Some students can cover rent for the month by just sleeping over near the store.

According to classic economy rules, to cope with high demand - raise prices. Versace H&M should have either been more expensive or in larger quantities. Hopefully next fashion icon Marni will get the point.

However, Versace hype didn't go as planned in Paris from what it seems. Apparently Parisians were returning items back to the store for various reasons and today you can still get a hand on most extravagant items. Perhaps, Toronto will follow the trend... but this would be much controversial. Why people are returning? Is something wrong with items?

Tuesday 18 October 2011

What is Designer Glasses

Valentino VAL 5766

The term "designer" seems to be in trend nowadays for everything from shoes to furniture. In fact, it's been used so much out of context that people no longer react to it. It became a main stream, overused and abused.

Term designer, historically applied to fashion. These were people who create new looks and ways of clothing pieces to combine them into complete outfit. The word designer often makes sense when added to more specific industry. Interior designer, jewelery designer, furniture designer, shoes designer, sunglasses desinger etc. It is important to understand that large fashion conglomerates employ all of these specific people and it's not one celebrity name who creates all parts of fashion collections. That person is often to provide vision, inspiration and put a final word on what is being included.

Tiffany TF4048B

Glasses and sunglasses is a completely different story. Since designing eyewear needs much more expertise in shapes and glasses elements that get fitted onto the face, fashion celebrity designers often take little part in designing an eyewear for their own labels. Just to give you an idea such complex studies as ergonomics, aerodynamics, material science, historical sales data are just a few fields that are taken seriously when creating a new pair of sunglasses of glasses. For that reason creation of eyewear is most of the time trusted to what now known distribution companies. Among the largest are Luxottica and Safilo. 80% of big brand names are being taken care of by them. Two rivals constantly compete for new brands and at times switch hands on the right to manufacture and distribute. Most recent switch is Valentino eyewear that as of Januray 1, 2012 will change houses from Safilo to Luxottica.

Tom Ford Tom Ford 0179

There are certain brands that are in more control by the actual fashion celebrity designer. For example Tom Ford. He, a known perfectionist, didn't just hand over his name to Marcolin, a distribution house. He set rules. Each model of sunglasses and glasses is personally approved by Tom Ford himself. He, among the few, who personally visited the plant where glasses are made spending a few weeks perfecting the manufacturing process and bonding with the team. Tiffany and Bvlgari, jewelery brands, are very particular about the new styles following their seasonal releases. Bvlgari glasses always match Bvlgari actual diamond and gemstone collections and are always advertised together.

Designer glasses are charachterized by details. Shape, temple, logo, presentation, packaging, marketing - all comes together for each pair of such glasses or sunglasses. Glasses may look simple, but if you take them in your hands you will see the details.

What is Designer Glasses

Versace VE4214 94413

Tiffany TF4065

Glasses and sunglasses is a completely different story. Since designing eyewear needs much more expertise in shapes and glasses elements that get fitted onto the face, fashion celebrity designers often take little part in designing an eyewear for their own labels. Just to give you an idea such complex studies as ergonomics, aerodynamics, material science, historical sales data are just a few fields that are taken seriously when creating a new pair of sunglasses of glasses. For that reason creation of eyewear is most of the time trusted to what now known distribution companies. Among the largest are Luxottica and Safilo. 80% of big brand names are being taken care of by them. Two rivals constantly compete for new brands and at times switch hands on the right to manufacture and distribute. Most recent switch is Valentino eyewear that as of Januray 1, 2012 will change houses from Safilo to Luxottica.

Tom Ford TF280 Lana

Tuesday 11 October 2011

Short Films Is a New Fashion Trend

With Karl Lagerfeld releasing a short film to showcase his Chanel Spring Summer 2012 "Cruise" collection, the notion of shooting films for the purpose of advertising a new product has been gaining popularity. Over the last week Bottega Venetta's video attempt to showcase their new perfume has been floating the web:

Short films are not regular ads. They are made to seem like a movie with the name, story line, actors (who often are models appearing in print ads), director and producer credentials. To make it appear as a real film, companies also avoid showing names on products or explicitly stating what products or even brand name actors are wearing. Hence is where they are launched and showed. Karl's Film "The Tale if Fairy" was posted on Chanel's website on the day it was premiered at Cannes Film Festival. Within few days after, film has been re-posted on YouTube and shared over million times on Facebook, Twitter and various fashion websites and magazines. Film helped Cruise collection become the most successful launch on Internet.

Bottega Veneta's film has been also posted on various YouTube channels such as Fashion Illustrated, mentioned on Style.com and other websites. Buzz keeps on spreading. It will be a success.

Companies that employ this new way of advertising are actually saving millions of dollars in print ads and prime time fees. They are also follow Seth Godin's, a famous marketing author, idea of Permission Marketing. People who watched the movie had to make a move to click on a link on some other website or at least hit "play". Film was not forced on them via nasty ad during the TV show or put before table of contents in the fashion magazine. I think short films are very effective and it is a future of fashion advertising.

Sunday 17 July 2011

Matching Shoes, Bags and Sunglasses

An amazing thing about big labels is that they produce cohesive collections of accessories that could be matched perfectly. There is a big truth behind the idea - marketing. Brand awareness to be exact. The more consistent the brand is with using the corporate colors, patterns and logo, the more recognizable they will be among consumers - even those who are not fashion forward. In fact, many luxurious labels target customers who are not all that fashionable, but they have money. Why, well, because many people who can really afford Gucci purse may be very busy making money, not following fashion trends. But when walking into the store to buy a gift or a treat, such people, again very busy, will naturally be drawn to labels they recognize.

The most consistent corporate branding used on products are Luis Vuitton. Other close followers are Gucci and Coach. Dior, Chanel, Prada and the rest like experimenting, however in the past couple of years started to recognize the power of consistent branding and made entire collections that share same logo elements at least.

Matching shoes, bags and sunglasses is a pure joy. You can wear them separately or all together and make heads turn in your direction. Wow! You are a Gucci girl, some would say. Tell me if this is not a compliment. Also, you can work on creating your brand sets by pairing some of the clothing with the accessories from the same company. Here is our try:

Match Gucci


Gucci Vintage Web $995	Gucci Interlocking Ballerina $425	Gucci 3162 $176

Match Dior


Dior Gaufre $3300	Dior Biker Boot $1225	Dior Coquette 1 $245

Match Valentino


Valentino 2011 $2,695	Valentino Patented Studs $725	$187

Match Roberto Cavalli


Roberto Cavalli Clutch $468	Roberto Cavalli High-Heeled Sandals $434	Roberto Cavalli RC573S

Saturday 9 July 2011

Fashion Museums of the World

Fashion is life for many people. Designers are geniuses and models are celebrities. Fashion shows are entertainment and what they produce drive our look and ultimately feel. There are many museums dedicated to this wonderful theme.

In fact, museums are a real inspiration source for many designers. Many provide a very deep history report on the narrow theme they represent. Most major cities in the world have textile museums such as Toronto, Washington, London. Some have more narrow topic like shoes or costume or lingerie.

Bath Museum of Costume

Bath Museum of Costume has collections of Dress of the Year, photographs, corsets, and rooms representing particular century. It is one of the most complete and known fashion museums in the world.

Toronto Bata Shoe Museum

What may sound like not a big deal turns out to be an amazing find. Your wildest dreams will not create models on the permanent display of the Bata Shoe Museum. You will find a deep dive in history from very early prehistoric shoes displays to fancy 17 century embroidered models to an avant-garde modern crazy stilettos. There is also exhibit of shoes once worn by celebrities including Princess Diana and Elvis Prestley. And even little Chinese shoes that were once worn by poor ladies with debilitating feet in late 19 century. Ouch!

Amsterdam Purses Museum

Amsterdam Purses Museum is one not to miss when travelling to Holland. Purses museum will open your mind on what is done to these cute accessories that woman can’t live without. Inspired by purse business evolution museum displays thousands of bags, totes and clutches made out of sophisticated fabrics, embroideries, jewels, crystals, ivory and more.

Los Angeles FIDM Museum

FIDM Museum is part of the Fashion Institute of Design and Marketing in Los Angeles. Created to aide students on inspiration and research museum has a permanent collection of womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, fragrance, textile, jewellery and accessories that total over 15,000 pieces. You will find many designer pieces from almost all big names like Gianni Versace, Christian Dior, Coco Chanel and others. Instead of showing students pictures and PowerPoint presentations FIDM institution decided to create a live exhibit for them. Wow!

Mode Museum in Antwerp, Belgium

Mode Museum is fully dedicated to fashion and art of fashion and presents over 25,000 items covering all aspects of clothing, shoes and accessories. An amazing modern building presents permanent collections and year round rotating exhibitions. Also, you can see most of the collection online!

Other dorky museums are Celebrity Underwear Museum (Musee du Slip) in Brussels, Counterfeit Museum (Musee de la Contrafaçon or Counterfeit Museum) in Paris and Leila’s Hair Museum in Missouri.

Friday 8 July 2011

Dior Sunglasses 2011. Against All Odds

Dior has attained maximum attention this year. The controversies that spurred in early spring seem to only enhance the label awareness. Dior creative team however has been very productive - especially throughout their Dior sunglasses 2011 collection. While you will see many models that are clearly made trendy, Dior is still trying to retain the position of upper class brand and offer very wide selection of classical models: smaller rectangular or oval. They also have been huge on cat eye and while everyone just talking about the trend Dior offered close to 10 models that if not very cat-eye, are at least inspired by the idea.

Dior in 2011 has been very generous on colour. One may not say so from their Fall/Winter 2011 presentation made earlier this week in Paris, glasses were put on its own pace. Brave aquamarine, rose, pink, red, purple are all offered in sunglasses – perfect match to purse and shoes 2011 collection.
And a real treat, of course has been left for men. Dior Homme – a fully dedicated to men eyewear line has been fulfilled with new models. Dior Homme does have very clearly defined style – a bit military inspired and a bit sensual. Enjoy!

Trendy and Colorful Dior Sunglasses