Monday 19 August 2013

Will Anti Gay Law Impact Dior and Gucci Business in Russia

Protests against anti-gay law in Russia are gaining more power as several countries such as Canada are trying to ban the Olympic Games and move them from Sochi to Vancouver. United States and Germany have also voiced their disapproval, while Russia is defending itself citing that rights of gay athletes will not be compromised as law only affects those gays that are promoting gay movement in Russia. While the law itself is not very well understood as it was created to protect mostly children from so called "gay propaganda", most of people in Russia and abroad see it as a serious hit on democracy. The problem is that even in Russia law is taken out of context by various anti-gay groups that are trying to enforce justice outside of police and courts. 

Olympics aside, luxury fashion business has a choice to whether continue operate the stores or withdraw in protest as well. Majority of fashion designers for big brand names such as Dior, D&G, Hugo Boss, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Armani are openly gay. It is just a matter of time when they will start coming out one by one in protest. Even brands that are not led by gay designers, such as Prada, Roberto Cavalli, Gucci, Ralph Lauren for example, may join the movement in support of so many employees that are gay. It is surprising that over the past few months no one from designers or label management spoke out. There are far less gay athletes than fashion designers who are gay. 

So far only Andy Cohen, former Miss Universe has announced his official disrespect towards the law. The Miss Universe pageant is also set to be in Russia next year. So Miss Universe anti-gay Russia law has already began.

Thursday 6 June 2013

Dior Releases a Teaser for Secret Garden 2 - Versailles Film

Big brands have finally figured a way to free advertising. I think Karl Lagerfeld from Chanel was among the first with his The Tale of Fairy short film to use YouTube film for fashion advertising.
Raf Simons is getting a pressure from his new role at Dior and set his director's skills to work with Secret Garden 2 - Versailles. One can only imagine what film is about as it only features girls, some are very skinny, some are half naked, and some with shawls over their faces instead of sunglasses.
Shawl I think is a lost opportunity to feature Dior eyewear, but Ok, idea is creative.

Here is a teaser:


Wednesday 15 February 2012

Karl Lagerfeld Would Turn Russian Women into Lesbians

Legendary Karl Lagerfeld has recently gave intervoew for February issue of Voque Russia. As usually very quick answerer and excellent debater Karl went into discussing his new Pirelli calendar, photography, technology and Russia. He has lots of good memories of Russia since his last visit some two years ago. Being native German, Karl is never intimidated by cold Russian winter and does not have a problem with a lot of snow.



He however does have a problem with Russian men. As much good as it could be said about Russian women, many of whom were Chanel models, the opposite impression is about men. According to Karl, Russian men are rude and ugly. Karl said that he does not understand Russian women for choosing to be with Russian men and if he would live in Russia as a women, he would turn into becoming lesbian.

While being funny and cute, Karl is right. Russian men are know to have no respect and honor to their wives. Of course, things get even more messy when men start to drink, and in Russia, staggering 30% of men have a serious alcohol problem, often turning violent on their wives and kids. Women, in their turn look after themselves into old age. From psychological standpoint, this is because deep inside they make themselves beautiful to find better men.

It is quite respectful to bring up the problem on Karl's end and say something in defense of Russian legends such as Natalia Vodianova and Daria Werbowy, who are among top 10 highest paid models in the world. As world getting global and certain countries are struggling with lack of female population, perhaps Russian men will give it a second thought and start treating their women as ladies. Bravo Karl!

Wednesday 1 February 2012

Vanity Fair Magazine is Accused of Racism

Popular blog Style.com has published article discussing Vanity Fair's choice of celebrities when doing group photos. It's hard to speculate but Style.com has provided a clear evidence that racism does exist in the world of fashion.


When analyzing 11 similar group photos published over the past 15 years we can see a pattern of black models and movie stars being tackled away on the back rows or sides. Most of such photos are tri-fold, so the top part of the photos always shows only white people. Initially, such group combinations were a norm, but as time goes on and topic of racism is raised with every possibility, making such photos in 2o12 is plain unacceptable.

Question arises, why black and even white models agree pose in such discriminating photos? We all here to judge, but who's fault is here. For the most part of people participating in such photos. Funny thing, is that some shoots represent times when black people were on the peak of emergence in fashion world - 1930's. No movie about Great Depression is made without large number of black characters. Yet, when it comes to this photo black people are absent.





Interestingly, in style.com comments people disregard the point of the article and take time to discuss who is better Zoe Saldana or Halle Berry.

Tuesday 29 November 2011

Versace H&M Collaboration Went as Planned, but Made Many Feel Disgusting


Much buzzed about Versace H&M collaboration went tip top according to Versace and H&M management. Countless ad releases, press and video coverages, who has't heart about it? But here is a sad news - most just heard about it, never got to see it...

In Toronto for example, collection was only available in 2 stores - Eaton Center and Yorkdale Mall. That's it. Toronto is 4th largest city in North America, with population smaller only than in NY, Chicago and LA. I see people blogging that they had to wake up at 4 am and stand in a few hour long line while in the store to get a little skirt or a jacket for $200. At Eaton Center collection was sold out by 12:30 pm.

I am not sure why people are so proud of getting some cheap Versaces? Something is seriously wrong with H&M marketing as they piss more people off than make them happy. The whole idea of collaborating with luxury brand is to create a "high-end" experience in a low-end store H&M. Clearly H&M is known for a good value and low prices, but average quality which is still worth it for the money they charge. So, bringing in big name designers supposedly is for increasing the company reputation as a higher-end brand. But making people turn into bums to snap a piece of clothing is not "high-end".

Some designers get it. For example Karl Lagerfeld a few years back was among the first collaborators of H&M. He was disgusted by the fact that people were treated this way and made H&M produce enough quantity to satisfy the demand. At Chanel one would get a royal treatment when shopping with offered drinks and multiple staff helping you shop. At H&M you are faced with a sleep over on the street before doors open and a few hour long line up when inside. I would imagine the atmosphere is far from friendly over there.

Another concern is creation of black market. It probably peaked at Roberto Cavalli H&M launch just 4 years ago. Once collection sold out it reappeared at eBay for a premium. For some people the collaboration was not a way to engage fashion, it was to make money. I can't blame them - when opportunity is created, why not use it. Some students can cover rent for the month by just sleeping over near the store.

According to classic economy rules, to cope with high demand - raise prices. Versace H&M should have either been more expensive or in larger quantities. Hopefully next fashion icon Marni will get the point.

However, Versace hype didn't go as planned in Paris from what it seems. Apparently Parisians were returning items back to the store for various reasons and today you can still get a hand on most extravagant items. Perhaps, Toronto will follow the trend... but this would be much controversial. Why people are returning? Is something wrong with items?

Tuesday 18 October 2011

What is Designer Glasses


Valentino VAL 5766

The term "designer" seems to be in trend nowadays for everything from shoes to furniture. In fact, it's been used so much out of context that people no longer react to it. It became a main stream, overused and abused.

Term designer, historically applied to fashion. These were people who create new looks and ways of clothing pieces to combine them into complete outfit. The word designer often makes sense when added to more specific industry. Interior designer, jewelery designer, furniture designer, shoes designer, sunglasses desinger etc. It is important to understand that large fashion conglomerates employ all of these specific people and it's not one celebrity name who creates all parts of fashion collections. That person is often to provide vision, inspiration and put a final word on what is being included.



Tiffany TF4048B

Glasses and sunglasses is a completely different story. Since designing eyewear needs much more expertise in shapes and glasses elements that get fitted onto the face, fashion celebrity designers often take little part in designing an eyewear for their own labels. Just to give you an idea such complex studies as ergonomics, aerodynamics, material science, historical sales data are just a few fields that are taken seriously when creating a new pair of sunglasses of glasses. For that reason creation of eyewear is most of the time trusted to what now known distribution companies. Among the largest are Luxottica and Safilo. 80% of big brand names are being taken care of by them. Two rivals constantly compete for new brands and at times switch hands on the right to manufacture and distribute. Most recent switch is Valentino eyewear that as of Januray 1, 2012 will change houses from Safilo to Luxottica.

There are certain brands that are in more control by the actual fashion celebrity designer. For example Tom Ford. He, a known perfectionist, didn't just hand over his name to Marcolin, a distribution house. He set rules. Each model of sunglasses and glasses is personally approved by Tom Ford himself. He, among the few, who personally visited the plant where glasses are made spending a few weeks perfecting the manufacturing process and bonding with the team. Tiffany and Bvlgari, jewelery brands, are very particular about the new styles following their seasonal releases. Bvlgari glasses always match Bvlgari actual diamond and gemstone collections and are always advertised together.

Designer glasses are charachterized by details. Shape, temple, logo, presentation, packaging, marketing - all comes together for each pair of such glasses or sunglasses. Glasses may look simple, but if you take them in your hands you will see the details.



What is Designer Glasses


Versace VE4214 94413

The term "designer" seems to be in trend nowadays for everything from shoes to furniture. In fact, it's been used so much out of context that people no longer react to it. It became a main stream, overused and abused.

Term designer, historically applied to fashion. These were people who create new looks and ways of clothing pieces to combine them into complete outfit. The word designer often makes sense when added to more specific industry. Interior designer, jewelery designer, furniture designer, shoes designer, sunglasses desinger etc. It is important to understand that large fashion conglomerates employ all of these specific people and it's not one celebrity name who creates all parts of fashion collections. That person is often to provide vision, inspiration and put a final word on what is being included.



Tiffany TF4065

Glasses and sunglasses is a completely different story. Since designing eyewear needs much more expertise in shapes and glasses elements that get fitted onto the face, fashion celebrity designers often take little part in designing an eyewear for their own labels. Just to give you an idea such complex studies as ergonomics, aerodynamics, material science, historical sales data are just a few fields that are taken seriously when creating a new pair of sunglasses of glasses. For that reason creation of eyewear is most of the time trusted to what now known distribution companies. Among the largest are Luxottica and Safilo. 80% of big brand names are being taken care of by them. Two rivals constantly compete for new brands and at times switch hands on the right to manufacture and distribute. Most recent switch is Valentino eyewear that as of Januray 1, 2012 will change houses from Safilo to Luxottica.
There are certain brands that are in more control by the actual fashion celebrity designer. For example Tom Ford. He, a known perfectionist, didn't just hand over his name to Marcolin, a distribution house. He set rules. Each model of sunglasses and glasses is personally approved by Tom Ford himself. He, among the few, who personally visited the plant where glasses are made spending a few weeks perfecting the manufacturing process and bonding with the team. Tiffany and Bvlgari, jewelery brands, are very particular about the new styles following their seasonal releases. Bvlgari glasses always match Bvlgari actual diamond and gemstone collections and are always advertised together.

Designer glasses are charachterized by details. Shape, temple, logo, presentation, packaging, marketing - all comes together for each pair of such glasses or sunglasses. Glasses may look simple, but if you take them in your hands you will see the details.